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Part Brand: CRANE/EATON Placement on Vehicle: -- Manufacturer Part Number: 1064-SET Surface Finish: NITR.BLACK AAIA Part Number: -- Warranty: Yes Other Part Number: -- Condition: New Description VisitmyeBayStore: Add to Favorite Stores | Sign up for Store newsletter CRANE BLUE RACER CAMSHAFT ANDEATONANTI PUMP-UPLIFTERS FOR SBC CHEVY 350-383 RECOMMENDED USE :namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" / THIS IS THE PERFECT :namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:smarttags" /CAM CHOICE FOR A CHEVY SBC350/355 or 383 STROKER ENGINE RUNNING 9.2-10.3 COMPRESSION If your running a 383, it is recommended you have appox. 9.2:1 or morecompression ratio. Hydraulic flat tappet style cam and lifters. 488-510 LIFT, 234-244 0.50 lift DURATION, 112 LOBE SEP. Notice the precision quality of this cam. The lifters are also outstanding. The lifters are a true anti pump-up design by Eaton. RUNNING THIS CAM IN A 383 WILL PRODUCE APPROXIMATELY 425-445 HORSE POWER AND 400-440 FT. LBS OF TORQUE IN THE 3200-4000 RPM RANGE WHEN USING OURNEW PROCOMPALUMINUM HEADS OR HEADS OF EQUIVALENT RUNNER VOLUME. THE ABOVE NUMBERS ARE WHEN RUNNING A 383 CID CHEVY STROKER ENGINE AT 9.6 COMPRESSION This can will produce approx.6000rpmwhen used in a 350 Chevy engine running our new Procomp 210cc heads. This is the cam now used in our new Stage One engine. Our testing has been extensive with this cam profile. Very Important update, 6/5/08 Before you read the rest of this add, we would like to tell you about our most recent dyno results using this cam in a Chevy 350 engine. We have never tested the Crane 1064 in a 350 until recently, only 383s. The results were truly amazing. By advancing the cam timing 4 degrees at the crank, we have achieved hp numbers of 418hp, yet maintained torque numbers near 400 pound feet all thru out the power band. What is really amazing is we used our newly revised Procomp sbc aluminum heads, with compression around 9.7:1 When we advanced the cam timing at the crank by 4 degrees, this engine made 418hp at 6000 rpm. This cam does not need to operate with some outrageously expensive heads to make some serious power. Our torque numbers are in the 380-395 range from 3200 and up. Our dyno is a Super Flo, and this rpm is as low as we can start out at, but rest assured, this cam is producing very good torque well below 3200 The torque curve stays very flat all the way up to around, 5500 rpm. The pistons were -13cc dish GM pistons, andour Procompheads had 58cc combustion chambers, with 210 runners. Our total ignitiontiming was set at 36 degrees. We really like this cam as it is just right for most street rods running a 350 or 383 As for having to degree the cam at the crank to 4 degree advance, our Cloyes True double roller timing chain kit allows up to 4 degrees adjustment plus or minus. At first we put the cam timing at stock position, and achieved 392hp. Our company founder Fred White, suggested we advance the cam timing at the crank to 4 degrees. If your going to buy a Cloyes timing chain you should use our True double roller part number 9-1100. When you play with cam timing it is usually a give and take situation. When advancing or retarding a cam, this can affect the power curve usually.Our company founderexplained this to us. He knew this change in cam timing would not kill top end power at all, but actually increase it as well as the bottom end. Fred could see that the cam was still wanting to make power above 5600 rpm, and that this change would not hurt bottem or top end power. This was indicated by the dyno report according to Fred. We really dont know all the science to it, but Fred most certainly does. He has been building high level race engines going on 40 years. Our newly revised PC heads are now much more impressive than we had expected. All this info is actually the result of testing we were doing on the new PC heads, not the cam. We wanted to see what cam worked best with our new line of heads, and never dreamed that we were coming up with such a fabulous combination. When your building a street rod, and not wanting to spend a fortune, the combination of parts, as well as tuning, (settings, cam and ignition timing, carb, jetting, intake choice, etc) is very important. It would surprise you to know that we could actually put a set of better flowing heads on this engine, using this cam, and compression range, and not come up any better than we did, or only show a very slight increase, but the better flowing heads may really shine in a totally different combination of parts, such as in an engine having more compression, bigger cam, and different settings. The combination of parts is what it is all about, as well as tuning, (settings) This testing is very important, as well as expensive. We know its the only safe way to recommend a cam is to have tested it in at least two different street rod combinations, heads, cam, and intake, and this we have done. The 383 engine is next. We have tested this in the 383 in the past, but it was with another brand of heads. When running this cam in a 383 we in hp, but it most certainly has an increase in torque. We also noticed the torque coming in at a much lower rpm. The 383 is a lot of fun to drive, but we keep coming up with better combinations for the 350 It seems the 350 engine was the perfect all around engine when GM came up with it, it just needed a decent set of heads and cam to make some power. We never seem to get as many increases in the 383 as we do the 350 It seems thatthe 350 engine has more room for improvement than once thought, and the Crane Blue Racer 1064 cam is about as good as it gets in a low cost buildup. As we do all this testing on heads, cams, and different combinations, etc, and we come up with hp numbers that are this high, we want you to consider that what we are doing is achieving numbers that few have ever done, while maintaining very good street manners, and most importantly without spending a fortune on your engine, or sacrificing engine durability. It wasnt to many years ago, that building a 350 engine in the 400+ hp range was very expensive. Think about this, getting 6000rpm, out of a 350 engine that has a very low cost set of aluminum heads on it, and runs on pump gas, at 9.7:1 comp. ratio, with a cam and lifter package that we are selling for about 125.00 thats simply amazing. You must realize that a set of decent aluminum heads are what you will need to come up to these numbers, and we offer them as well.The only iron oem heads that can achieve decent hp numbers are the GM Vortec heads. They will not be in the 400 range, but they will certainly be way above stock.We may be testing the Vortec heads with this cam soon. Early model GM heads especially in the late 70s and all through the 80s have very poor flow numbers, and very small runner size. You will certainly bring out the best they have to offer with a cam such as this, but you should upgrade the heads if your wanting to make some decent power. This cam may not work withmost any of thestock valve springs, as they are very likely torun into coil bind. If your wanting to run a set of stock heads, then consider purchasingnew valve train hardware. The cost for the hardware is very little, and is superior in quality to what oem heads offer. If your running a 383, you should experiment and see what cam timing position works best for you. Now for some other very important aspects of this cam. The power is coming in at a fairly low rpm on our 350 and this is great. Street manners for those concerned, are very good, especially on the 383. When you increase the cubic inch on an engine and keep the cam size the same, your street manners are better, but hp numbers are only slightly higher. The reward for using this cam in a 383 is not only excellent street manners, but the low end torque response is incredible. We are going to have video clips soon showing how well this cam performs in a 383 as well as a 350 Engine lope at idle has a pure race sound in the 350 and slightly milder in the 383 but still very much a race engine sound. Overall engine sound is very strong, and throttle response is quick, as to be expected in most 350 buildups. As to how this cam will work in buildups other than the two we have done, we can not tell you exactly what to expect, but one thing for sure, we have sold this exact cam for many years, and have heard much praise from many. The combinations are endless, and never once have we had a customer wish for more cam or less for street rod use. It seems to fill the bill for everyone. We hope Crane continues this model. You really cant tell how a cam is going to react in an untried setup, but if your not in need of every ounce of power you can get, then comparing setups close to ours can give you a fairly good idea of what to expect. For competition racing, you will most likely need to go to 6000 to keep your rpm from to low of a drop when going to the next gear. For playing around on the street, running up to 5000 rpm is all thats needed. TheCrane Blue Racer cam is half the cost of most other brand name cams in the market, and the Crane cam is absolutely bullet proof. We have sold hundreds on them, and failures are nearly non-existent if proper break-in procedures are followed. Only one cam lobe issue ever, and you can almost bet the break in procedure was not followed correctly or the type of oil used did not have the high zinc compound in it. We do warranty the cam against break-in failure regardless of whose fault it is. Warning, you must run an oil additive when running a hydr. flat tappet cam. Bottom Line, If your going to choose a cam to run in an unknown combination, your going to be very satisfied with this cam, if its in the lift and duration zone you are looking for. The Crane 1064 is much more reliable against break-in failure than many others on the market. We now include the Eaton lifters with these cams. These lifters are the best on the market. We have run them up to 6300 rpm without any issues, and we can attest to having problems with other lifters on the market. The most common issue was"pumping up",andcausing a valvefloat situation. The Eaton lifters ed this. Many of the socalled anti-pump up lifters on the market are to aggressive in there design, causing noise upon deacceleration.We have found theEaton lifters to be perfect. Take our word on this, cheap lifters as well as lifter not rated for high rpm will create many problems.You will receive the Eaton lifters in a regular well sealed package, no fancy box, as we purchase them in bulk for our Stage One engine program. They come to us in trays of 122 lifters each. Serious power with the Crane 1064 comes on at around 2000 rpm. Torque isvery strong. We have a vast amount of customer feedback with this cam profile, and have been running it in one ofSkips 240Z cars, that has a 383 in it. You will need to run a stall converter to get of the line quickly, but you wont need a very high stall. Around 2500-2800 if you have this cam in a 383 engine. The same stall will also be ok if your running a 350 but only in a somewhat light car. You will be disappointed running a stock stall converter if you are going to run this cam in a 350 A 383 still needs an above stock stall, but is not as demanding as the 350 engine. Our new Crane boxes are plain white. We have no idea why. You can call Crane if you like, and they will confirm that these cams are coming straight from them. We suspect the plain white box is for dealers selling cam and head packages, but not wanting to reveal where the cam came from or its part number. This is to keep competitors from coming up with the same combo. Sellers doing this will often tell you what the lift and duration is, but claim it to be a private grind especially made for them by Crane, and this is how this cam came into existence several years ago. Crane no longer even stamps the part number in the cam, but its exactly what we say it is, a Crane Blue Racer cam # 1064, straight from Crane. The cam will have a cam card with it, with all the specs listed. NOTE FROM OUR COMPANY PRESIDENT, SKIP WHITE When I visit the local car shows, I talk to a good many people about what kind of cam they are running. Seems 8 out of 10 run cams one or even two steps below this. They claim not wanting to encounter drivability issues. Im sure if they had the Crane 1064 cam in their engine, they would have a completely different opinion. I take notice to what their cars sound like as they enter or leave the show, and I must say they sound weak, mild, etc. I cant think of anything so imbalanced as to have a street rod/hotrod, with a near stock sounding engine in it. Its a turnoff when they start the engine to leave. The little bit of rough idle lope is hardly noticable. You dont have to give up drivability to have an engine that sounds strong.. As a matter a fact, those running these mild cams, are not even considered a street rod/hotrod in my opinion. My way of thinking, is that I know that the Chevy 350 engines in stock form, only produced around 175-200 hp, and then knowing that a new Nissan Altima 4 cylinder produces 175 hp. I certainly want to know my engine hp is well above the Altima 4 cyl. When I pull up in my 240Z with our Stage One 418hp 350 engine in it, 9 out of ten people comment that it sounds great. They know that sound, as they have heard it thousands of times at the drag strip, and its the sound of power, crisp, deap, and somewhat erratic. Then when you step on it, the sound becomes explosive. Sure you will need a step or two up on your stall converter, but you have a hotrod, right. I have just posted a video clip on Youtube. Just type in Skips Datsun 240Z This video clip was done with an in car video camera at the drag strip. The car has our Stage One 418hp 350 engine in it. Wewere stalling on the car at about 2500on the launch.You will clearly see this car is not suffering from drivability issues. . I think this would be an excellent way to give people an idea of how this cam sounds, not to mention how well it performs in the car when accelerating. I want a cam to beat the ground at idle and when I step on it, I want it to make some power and sound great, thats a what having a street rod is all about in my opinion. What puzzles me is this cam kit costs about the same or lessthan some of the mild and wimpy profiles many people are using. Driveability only becomes a problem when you go up around 550 lift or more in a 350 engine. Those cam profiles do have to be addressed in how you set the car up, and they do have limitations on how low the rpm can be for cruising. The Crane 1064 cam will cruise all day at around 2200 rpm. A 2500-2800 stall is perfect and feels great in the car, and works well on the street. If your running an overdrive, you cant let it kick in at lets say, 1600-1700 rpm, as this will cause surging, and carbon buildup issues, but this would also be encountered with the cams that are one or two steps below this. Keep the car in drive if you are in town, and when your rpm get up to around 2400, then you may shift to overdrive. Skip White For those not familiar with the different type camshafts on the market, we will explain this to you. This camshaft is considered a flat tappet style cam. In other words a non roller type cam. It is not a roller cam, nor does it use roller lifters. It is not considered a solid lift camshaft. It is a flat tappet hydraulic camshaft. This is the type cam used in all cars in the mid 80s on back. This is what most medium class street/strip rods run. Many will tell us they are running roller rockers on there engine, or tell us they want to run them, when asking about this cam. There is no correlation between roller rockers and and a roller cam or any type cam. You can run roller rockers if you choose, and we advise it. The type cam you running has no bearing on what type rockers you have. 488-510 LIFT, 234-244 DURATION, 112 LOBE SEP. YOU WILL MOST LIKELY NOT BE ABLE TO RUN STOCK SPRINGS WITH THIS CAM. ACCORDING TO OUR HEAD BUILDER, MOST GM HEADS DO NOT HAVE SPRING SETUPS TO ALLOW THIS. WE DO HAVE THEMANY ACCESSORIES THAT MAY BE NEEDEDFOR DOING A CAM SWAP IN YOUR ENGINE. Those running a camshaft other than the hydraulic flat tappet type cam such as what we are selling are usually into serious racing or want a roller camshaft for extended life, as they may run excessively high mileage. You can run the type cam we are offering for many years without a problem. The price of roller camshafts and lifters is very high compared to the type setup we are offering. This camshaft will last many years without a problem if break in procedures are followed correctly. You must be give great attention to this procedure. This cam and lifter set will work in all early style Chevy small blocks, 1 or 2 piece style. Even though you may have a Gen 2 one piece style block that came with a roller cam and lifters, this cam and lifter setup will still work. We strongly recommend its use in a 383 stroker, but it will workgreatin a 350 build up. Streetmanners are very high when running this in a 383sbc engnine.Expect this cam to be a bit more radical in a 350 engine, requiring a higher rated stall converter, (2500-2800 range), many factors are to be considered when selecting a stall converter. Below is a copy of the cam card. Dont be misled by these numbers, as the recommended rpm range shows 2500-6500 This is assuming the cam is running in a 350 cubic inch engine. When running this in a 383 stroker engine, this changes the lower rpm number to around 1500 rpm. This cam is smooth as silk, at around 1800 rpm,in a 383 engine andtakes off like a rocket from idle, (850 rpm) and cruises at 45 mph like your family car. This cam was actually designed for a popular circle track setup, and is perfectly suited in 350-383 for street use. Cam lube is included. Note from our company president, Skip White Most shops are reluctant to recommend a camshaft profile for there customer, as the customer may find it to be very unsuitable. This particular camshaft is best suited for most people we have encountered running a 350-383 street/strip setup. Never have they said they wish it were smoother at idle, nor have they indicated that they wanted more cam lope at idle. The bottom end power is perfect off the line, mid range is excellent, and of course top end is very impressive. We tested many cams before we came up with a cam that worked this well throughout the power band. This cam profile could not be better, without sacrificing a noticeable amount of power. Yes you will need a stall converter, but not much of one. A 2500-2800 will do fine, a 2800-3200stallis recommended if your running in a heavy car,(3800lbs or more). The cost is low on the 2500 rpm range of torque converter. It wouldnt hurt to replace the converter anyway, as the one your running is most likely well worn. The dyno report on my engine showed that this cam is making huge amounts of power, (torque) in a somewhat flat line from 3200-5400, and believe me, when I say huge amounts of power compared to what most people on the street have in there 350 engines. Dont misunderstand the rpm range on the cam card. Cam companies rate the rpm power range on a cam where the huge bulk of its power making range starts, but this info is very dependent on several factores. I have a 355 rear gear in the car, and Im running a turbo 350 trans, so its off line power is not a result of low gearing. My car is not as light as you would think. It weighs approx. 3000lbs. with my slightlychubby frame in the car. This camhas what appears toinstant off line power. Many have asked us if Crane makes a good cam. Thats easy to answer, they are best cam builders in the world in our opinion. They are certainly the most expensive and for good reason, they are the best! The car mentioned above is my original Z car, and has a 383 engine in it. My newest Z car, the blue one seen pictured in many of my adds, has the newest version of our Stage One418hp 350engine in it, and this Crane cam is whats in it. I love the sound and performance. You will to, this I promise. Yes you could go a few steps down in cam profile and eliminate the need for a stall converter, but it defeats the purpose of havinga street rod.You dont want a stock sounding idle, and thats a dead giveaway of a wimpy low powered engine. With this cam in my 71 Datsun 240Z with a 383 stroker engine, I can outrun most any production car ever built, and it has a wicked sound at idle. It will nearly pull the front wheels off the ground at take off when I have the DOT slicks on the car. This cam is suited for daily driving, and actually smooths out at around 1800 rpm. Thats perfect for overdrive cars. You may want to keep the shift selector in drive if your overdrive comes in at 40 mph, dropping your rpm down to 1500. The engine may surge a bit, but soon as your up to1700-1800 rpm, click it into overdrive. I will personally guarantee that you will like this cam, and will give you a full refund on it and the lifters if your not satisfied. The only exception to running this cam in your 350-383 engine is if you have aheavy pickuptruck. This cam would not be well suited for that purpose.Check out our new sbc heads, and you can read about the dyno testing we did to come up with this choice cam. When you here this cam in a 350-383 engine, you will be impressed. This is the kind of cam that when people hear it, they take notice. I like that. Skip White BELOW IS SKIPS NEWEST DATSUN Z car,and it has this cam in it, with our newest version of the Stage One 418hp 350 cid engine in it. TAKE OUR WORD ON THIS CAM, AND GIVING SUGGESTIONS ON CAMS IS NOT AN EASY TASK. WE FEEL CONFIDENT THAT YOU WILL LOVE THIS PROFILE FOR YOUR 350-383 STREET ROD. WE HAVE TESTED MANY DIFFERENT COMBINATIONS TO COME UP WITH THE PERFECT ALL AROUND 350-383 STREET ROD CAM. THE ONLY TIME WE WOULD NOT RECOMMEND THIS CAM IS IF YOU WERE WANTING HP IN THE UPPER RANGES WELL BEYOND 450, AND WE DO HEAR FROM MANY PEOPLE WANTING THIS HP IN A 383 ENGINE BUT DONT REALIZE TO ACHIEVE THIS, YOU ARE GETTING INTO SOLID LIFTER SETUPS, POOR LOW END POWER AND DRIVABILITY, SHORTER ENGINE LIFE ESPECIALLY THE VALVE TRAIN, EXTREME FUEL CONSUMPTION, AND MUCH MORE $$$. WE ARE GOING TO OFFER MORE SELECTIONS IN THE WEEKS AHEAD. WE HAVE FOUND THIS CAM TO BE THE PERFECT 383 STREET ROD CAM FOR THOSE WANTING THE BEST OF EVERYTHING. Please leave your phone number in an email when using the, "contact seller" tab. We never solicit our customers, but having your phone number in case of a shipping or service related problem is valuable. WE OFFER GREAT DISCOUNTS ON SHIPPING. YOU ONLY PAY THE FULL SHIPPING FEE ON THE HIGHEST SHIPPING COST OF YOUR GROUP OF ITEMS, AND HALF PRICE SHIPPING ON ALL ADDITIONAL ITEMS. FEW OFFER DISCOUNTS ON SHIPPING SUCH AS THIS. EMAIL US USING THE " ASK SELLER A QUESTION " TAB, IF YOU WOULD LIKE US TO CALCULATE YOUR SHIPPING COST ON MULTIPLE ITEM ORDERS OR YOU MAY REQUEST AN INVOICE AT TIME OF CHECKOUT . MAKE SURE THE CORRECT SHIPPING AMOUNT IS PAID TO AVOID DELAYS IN YOUR ORDER. SHOULD IT BE OFF BY A FEW CENTS, THAT WILL BE OK. IF YOU ARE UNABLE TO EMAIL US GIVE US A CALL AT FROM 8AM-6PM EASTERN TIME MON-FRI AND 10AM-3PM ON SAT. WE WILL ANSWER YOUR EMAIL WITHIN THE SAME DAY IN MOST CASES, SO KEEP SHOPPING AND PAY HALF PRICE SHIPPING ON ALL ADDITIONAL ITEMS. PLEASE CALCULATE YOUR SHIPPING CORRECTLY OR AS MENTIONED ABOVE, WITHIN A FEW CENTS OF ACCURACY , TO AVOID DELAYS IN SHIPPING YOUR ITEMS. IF YOU ARE HAVING DIFFICULTY PAYING WITH PAYPAL, FEEL FREE TO GIVE US A CALL AT ASK FOR SARA OR STACIE. CUSTOMER SERVICE AND SALES HOURS OF OPERATION ARE 8AM-7PM Mon-Fri and 10AM-3PM SAT EASTERN TIME ZONE FOR TECH SUPPORT, PLEASE USE THE, "ASK SELLER A QUESTION TAB". ITS LOCATED AT THE TOP RIGHT HAND SIDE OF THIS PAGE. YOU MAY ALSO CALL FOR TECH SUPPORT IF YOUR UNABLE TO EXPLAIN WHAT YOU NEED IN AN EMAIL. TECH SUPPORT IS USUALLY NOT AVAILABLE TILL AROUND 10-6 MON-FRI -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- After purchasing, pay instantly with your credit card through PayPal, or call us at or Select a picture 00002

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